The cannabinoides help to erase the bad memories

To erase the negative memories is something that our mind knows to do. But, how? In the central nervous system we have receivers of cannabinoides, that are the substances that cause that the bad thoughts disappear. This discovery of the scientists would mean that through these substances diseases could be cured, such as the anxiety that causes post-traumatic stress, the phobias and the attacks of panic.
Amalia Garci’a-Mayor, CNN+. It is in the tonsil where these cannabinoides are concentrated that, when suffering fear, go off towards the nervous cells. The medicines that could be created must be centered in harnessing the cannabinoides in this part of the body and extracting them for their treatment.
Reason why it is seen, the own nature helps to make disappear the bad memories. Through the mice this can be appreciated, according to Beat Lutz, of the Institute Max Planck de Psiquiatría de Munich. The discovery can take to fix the mental problems of people. “We could understand the problems of anxiety by means of this system”, comments Lutz.
The chemical assets of the marijuana, tetrahydrocannabinol or THC, are looked like the receivers of canabinoides of the brain that are related to the sensations of pain, the emotions and the movement. In the last decade the investigators have already found created chemical substances in the brain that are similar to the THC.
Fear in the mice
The investigators have experimented genetically with the mice so that they needed a particular type of receiver of cannabinoides called CB1. Normally, since already there are saying, they are in the tonsil, a zone of the brain that is associated to the fear.

Soon they conditioned the mice, next to which they had not undergone alterations, to associate a concrete tone of music with an electrical shock. Both groups of mice learned express the fear association, dying whenever they heard the sound. One week later, the mice exposed themselves repeatedly to tones but without the electrical shock. The normal mice forgot their fear immediately, whereas the mice still modified were fear 11 later.

The investigators saw that the modified mice had suppressed the bad memories, but took six times more than the normal ones. The group of Lutz also demonstrated that blocking the receivers of CB1 in the normal mice he produced he himself effect to them of not forgetting the bad memories that to the other animals

The equipment of Lutz later studied the tonsil of the mice, and confirmed that the animals that were now forgetting the disagreeable association had greater levels of two important cannabinoides - anandamide and 2arachidonolglicerol- that those that never had been trained.
This suggests these chemical substances help to erase the bad memories in relation to receivers CB1.
Lutz also aimed that the marijuana in itself is a potential treatment since activates all the receivers of cannabinoides of the blow brain.
Relation of the canabinoides and the porros
The marijuana has been used of medicinal form during hundreds of years and people with certain psychic conditions, like the schizophrenia have had always more facility to smoke porros that healthy people.
Porro therapeutic not exite like so, but can be spoken of users of medicinal cannabis. The only problem that it has is that the smoke, aside from cannabinoides contains tars and gases several. Nevertheless, it is not necessary to forget the advantages the cannabinoides.
To eat cannabis is another option not to inhale the negative substances, but the metering is complicated and the unpredictable effects. When metabolizar itself in the liver no longer it arrives at the brain the cannabinoide but something different, a modified substance that can get to cause mareos, malaise or anxiety.

A plant mother is that from which camos to obtain esquejes, that is to say, plants daughters. In fact that the nascent one can do it with culaquier plant. But in fact they are desired to obtain generations of clones of superior quality must become a selection from the plants swellings of seed. The system consite in making a pair or three clones of each plant of which they are going away to put to bloom. Esquejes must be labeled to know soon to what it plants correspond. Some clones must stay alive, and after harvesting and smoking those that have been put to bloom, seliccionan those more interesting stocks. Thus, they choose esquejes that shows the most favorable characteristics: fast growth, greater yield, resistance to plagues and better effects. In ocoasiones also a plant by concrete characteristics of flavor and/or their effects can be chosen, although it does not have a great rendimineto. In this way the plant wished during an indefinite time will be able to be cultivated. Nobody always must be eliminated esqueje that shows weakness symptoms or that do not grow well.

In order to maintain a plant mother of esquejes edénticos the harvest is much more uniform. The idea is to select those plants that, by their powerful growth and fast productivity, emphasize. It is a search that requires something of time and patience, but that once concluded brings better fruits.

Thanks to the plants mothers and the production of clones, the call can be established “harvests continuous”. A rotation system settles down that allows to harvest each 6-8 weeks. The three stages are due to maintain: plants in growth to produce clones, esquejes taken root and plantnas in period of flowering.
On the revegetación
Alternating its normal conditions the marijuana is capazde to pass of the flowering stage to the one of growth, causing an increase of the hours of light. By some reason in particular this characteristic can be useful. It is possible to be revegetar cutting all the superior part of the plant and leaving to the base with some branches and leaves so that it grows again. Although this system has serious disadvantages, since to go well a greater tiesto would be due to provide to the plant. Case of not being able to do it is due to wash the Earth well watering with distilled water, and to pay with a rich nitrogen fertilizer. Also plants in summer can be revegetar when the days are very long. The simplest system consists of revegetar sñolo some esqueje giving 18h him. of light more. The more outpost is the phase of flowering the more will be delayed in taking root and in giving the change, thing of a month can take, according to the varieties. But it is possible to revegetar by this system plants with a month of flowering or more. For this system sulene to usuar low branches preferably, because they are those that take a little more in accusing the changes of the flowering. It remembers that if you enter esquejes of outside interior it is very easy to introduce parasitic. Reason why a taken root zone is better of aside from the zone of the main interior; to put under them a species of uarentena and to treat them precentivo antiinsects.

There is nothing as no easy as to cultivate a marijuana plant, it is enough with seeding a seed and watering it from time to time. The problems arise months later when the plantita begins to show worrisome symptoms of which something does not go well. This guide is an aid to find out the cause of the problem. It must serve like general direction, since each plant and each garden are different. It begins reading by number one and follows until you find the definition that better adjusts to the problem of your plant.

1. If the problem only affects to the average or low part of the marijuana plant, it sees I number 2. If single it affects to the ends in growth or the part superior of the plant, it sees to number 10. If the problem appears in all the plant, sees number 6.

2. The leaves have a yellow or green color clear uniform; the leaves die and fall; the growth is slow. The edges of the leaves are not twisted. 诊断： nitrogen deficiency (n). If no, it sees number 3.

3. The ends of the leaves can be twisted. The leaves yellow and can be put brown, but the nerves of the leaves stay green. Zones arise from necrosis (woven died) of brown color oxide. Diagnosis: magnesium deficiency (Mg). If no, it sees number 4.

4. The leaves of the marijuana are put brown or yellow from the edges towards the center. They mainly appear zones of necrosis (woven died) of yellow or brown color in the edges of the leaves, that can be twisted. The plants can be very high, but the leaves fall with facility. Diagnosis: potassium deficiency (k). If no, it sees number 5.

5. The leaves are of almost bluish dark green color or with a reddish tone purple. The stems and the pecíolos of the marijuana leaves can take to a reddish color purple or, although it always does not happen. In the leaves they appear zones of necrosis of dark color black purple, in oldest and those of intermediate age. The leaves twist and they are ended up dying. The falling leaves are twisted and wrinkled with a characteristic ocher color. The growth is slow and the small leaves. Diagnosis: phosphorus deficiency (p). If no, it sees number 6.

6. The ends of the leaves are yellow, brown or dead. On the other hand, the plant is seen heals and green. The stems can be soft. Diagnosis: sobrefertilization (specially nitrogen), excess of irrigation, damaged roots or insufficient ventilation of the land (to put more sand or pearlite in the mixture). Sometimes it is due to a deficiency of nitrogen, phosphorus or potassium. If no, it sees number 7.

7. The leaves are curved downwards as a claw and have a dark, gray, brown or golden color green. Diagnosis: sobrefertilization (excess of nitrogen). If no, it sees number 8.

8. The plant is mustia or withered, although the Earth is humid. Diagnosis: sobrefertilization, too humid earth, damaged roots, some copper disease, deficiency (it is very rare that it happens). If no, it sees number 9.

9. The marijuana plants do not bloom although they have been having twelve hours of the dark for two weeks. Diagnosis: the nocturnal period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too many prunings or esquejes. If no, it sees number 10.

10. The leaves are yellow or blanquecinas, but the nerves remain green. Diagnosis: iron deficiency (Faith), possibly due to pH too high. If no, it sees number 11.

11. The leaves twist, soon they are put of brown color or they die. Diagnosis: in a interior culture, the lights are too much close. Rarely, a deficiency of calcium (Ca) or boron (b). If no, it sees number 12.

12. Your plant can be a weak plant.

GENERAL ADVICE TO SOLVE DEFICIENCIES

The nutritious deficiencies of the plants usually do not come single. Habitually we will find two or more deficiencies simultaneously. Many deficiencies, specially those of microelements, do not have to a lack of that element, if not to pH inadequate or an excess of Earth salts. When this happens, the roots cannot absorb the nutrients, although they are present in the Earth. In order to solve this deficiency, the technique to follow is the following one. In the first place we will wash the Earth watering it with a considerable amount of water, that we will leave slips by the drainage holes. The water took dissolved the salts that were present in the Earth, leaving it clean of salts. It is essential to wash to the Earth by far water. around two liters by each liter of earth. Next we will water the plants with a fertilizing solution. It is important to use installments NPK with microelements during all the life of the plant. The cannabis is a plant that grows quickly and needs much food. If we cultivated in flowerpots, will be necessary to pay once per week with a liquid fertilizer so that the plant don’t mention it it does not need. We will avoid that the rest of fertilizers washing periodically the Earth are accumulated (at least every two weeks). pH is a scale that goes from 0 to 14 and indicates the acidity or alkalinity of any substance, being 0 the Maxima acidity, 14 the Maxima alkalinity and 7 pH neutral. The cannabis grows well in pH slightly acid (pH 5.8 to 6.5 in hidroponía and pH 6.3 to 6.8 in earth). If pH raises over 7 or 7.2, begin the deficiencies, like if pH is too low. In order to measure pH we can use litmus paper or measurers of pH for aquariums. In the stores specialized in cannabis culture also measurers digital, more expensive but more exact can be found. If pH of the water is very high or very low, we will fit with an acid or a base to it, respectively. It is necessary to always fit pH of the water before watering. If we added installment to the water, we will fit pH after adding the fertilizer. In order to avoid deficiencies of nutrients, the best thing is the prevention: it controls pH of the water and on the Earth, it feeds your plants one or twice per week with liquid installment and washes to the Earth every two weeks.

Article of the magazine HEMP nº 29, May 2000 Texts: J.T.Gállego. For more info.: www.canamo.net

Female or male?Introduction:

The plant can adopt masculine, feminine or hermafrodita sex. The sex of the marijuana is very important, since only the females provide cogollos to us. The females will produce cogollos, rich in resin. If he is male, it will produce bags of polen to fertilize to the flowers of the females. The hermafroditas adopt sexes both simultaneously, so that they produce male and female flowers, of this form being able to autofecundar and to create seeds. The hermafroditas are not very common and is difficult that they appear.

He is vital to detect the males the sooner so that does not fertilize to the females with his polen and seeds make us lose a part of the harvest making. It is necessary to consider which they polen of a male can move hundreds of meters and until kilometers in favorable conditions of wind, therefore the only solution so that any female is not fertilized is the death of the male.

How is a female?

In order to detect a female, it will not be necessary to hope until the plant has cogollos. Before it plants it begins to make the cogollos, the plant gives to a signal showing to us its sex us. When it plants reach a handspan of altitude approximately, it depends much, we will be able to observe in the intersections of the main stem with the two ramifications “estigmas” of green color that will have left for a long time, because between the stem and each estigma is where it will appear the first indication of the sex of our plant. If in that zone they appear two pelillos of white color or even red, that leave an extended bag green our plant will be with total security a female. From there and more ahead they will leave the cogollos, that will be accumulations of these pelillos with their covered resin bags.

How is a male?

If in the same intersection, which I have detailed in the previous section, they appear a few small balls, that they will be growing and grouping itself in clusters as if a grapevine was, then our plant will be a male.

We are not due to hurry too much in detecting the males and killing them, since at the outset we can be confused easily if the flower is very small. In addition, where first we will be able to distinguish sex is in the highest part of the plant, that is where it is developed plus the plant and in where leave the first indications. The disadvantage is in which in that zone everything is very small and very is jammed so that it is difficult to appreciate it with clarity. We will have then to hope to that the plant grows a little more.

El fenómeno contemporáneo, en materia de marihuana, es el cultivo con luz artificial y automatización. Las extensiones plantadas a cielo abierto, en América, Asia, África y Polinesia, están dando paso a un agricultura de interiores, apoyada sobre motivos de seguridad (para el agricultor) y calidad (para el consumidor). Sin embargo, eso tiene poco de particular o relativo a la marihuana, porque marca un salto de la agricultura en general, comparable con el que va de la vieja máquina registradora al ordenador.

La palabra “hidropónico” (de hidros, agua, y pones, trabajo) designa un tipo de botánica que merecería llamarse “aeropónico”, ya que su elemento más destacado no es tanto el riego como la creación de un entorno general, y especialmente lumínico, cuya finalidad es proporcionar a cualquier tipo de planta un medio idóneo para desarrollarse y florecer. Combinando hallazgos científicos con progresos de índole más puramente técnica, esta forma de cultivo rinde una potencia superior o comparable a las mejores variantes conocidas usando tierra y aire libre.

El modelo fue perfeccionado por europeos e israelíes, unos para defenderse del brumoso frío y otros para evitar la aridez del desierto. Sin embargo, esos esfuerzos sólo acabaron de fructificar al difundirse nuevas lámparas y nuevos sistemas de anclaje para la raiz, gracias a los cuales es posible cultivar en periodos dos o tres veces más cortos una amplia gama de vegetales, obteniendo ejemplares de extraordinaria calidad, y ahorrando tanto agua como nutrientes en proporciones asombrosas. Lo esencial de esta técnica es optimizar el entorno donde crecerá la planta, evitando lo perturbador y ofreciendo generosamente lo bien aceptado. En otras palabras, se trata de convertir su vida en un edén. La reacción de las plantas a esa existencia no será menos positiva, deparándonos la oportunidad de imaginar qué suerte de humanos poblarían la Tierra si cada uno tuviese cubiertas sus necesidades y predilecciones de modo parejo.

Con todo, la jardinería es un campo -y un arte- que los varones suelen apreciar tarde, si alguna vez llegan a hacerlo. Las mujeres muestran a menudo más sensibilidad, aunque algo menos de interés por la parte eléctrica y digitalizada de la instalación hidropónica. Como esta botánica incluye ambos aspectos -el atento cuidado y el automatismo-, siendo también la manifestación más clara de desobediencia civil en materia de cáñamo, recordaré algunas nociones muy generales sobre la técnica, para que el lector juzgue por sí mismo.

Toda planta crece a partir de seis factores, que son luz, agua, nutrientes, aire, medio donde brotar y temperatura. Antes de que se inventara el cultivo en invernadero, y luego en interiores, estos seis elementos dependían enteramente del clima y la tierra, complementados por el campesino con alguna especie de abono; en el caso más elemental, los restos secos de la cosecha previa se queman, para usar esa ceniza como fertilizante (ya que contiene calcio y potasio). Pero veamos los factores uno por uno, ya que ese repaso permite describir las pautas y el instrumental en juego.

1) La luz es imprescindible para producir clorofila e hidratos de carbono; sin ella, el follaje se vuelve amarillo y la planta muere. No obstante, el mundo verde sólo usa parte del espectro luminoso, y sobre todo las longitudes de onda que vemos como azul y rojo. La agricultura estuvo muy limitada hasta descubrirse lámparas casi comparables a la luz solar en intensidad y con el debido espectro de color, pues sólo entonces pudo comprobarse que las plantas agradecen un fotoperiodo -esto es, una proporción diaria de luz y oscuridad- muy superior al proporcionado por el sol en estaciones distintas del verano; concretamente, sabemos hoy que su tasa máxima de crecimiento acontece cuando recibe 18 horas al día de luz (dos más que el 22 de junio en nuestra latitud), y sabemos también que el florecimiento es óptimo cuando en esa etapa de su vida recibe 12 horas.

Por supuesto, si la fuente lumínica es artificial no hay nubes, nieblas, tormentas o accidentes del terreno que atenúen su recepción durante la jornada; todo el problema de sustituir -o complementar (si se trata de un invernadero)- idóneamente al sol se zanja situando el foco lumínico a la distancia conveniente de cada planta. Si está demasiado lejos, se estirarán como delgados filamentos en vez de crecer homogéneamente, y si está demasiado cerca quemará las partes más próximas, traumatizando a la planta. Dependiendo de los vatios de cada bombilla, la distancia idónea para lámparas potentes estará entre los 30 y los 60 centímetros.

Naturalmente, cuando la fuente de luz es fija y única -como una bombilla en el techo- las plantas desarrollarán mucho más sus partes superiores, y mucho menos el resto; eso sucede ya a cielo abierto, aunque en medida bastante menor. De ahí que una buena instalación suponga también focos horizontales (o uno móvil) de menor intensidad, para alimentar a las partes medias e inferiores. Para el cultivador hidropónico los verdaderos límites están en el calor y, finalmente, en el espacio disponible, porque las plantas se deleitan absorbiendo tantos lúmenes como queramos, pero las bombillas no deben abrasar ninguna de sus partes, y la temperatura del cuarto no debe rebasar ciertos niveles.

Las primeras lámparas útiles en agricultura fueron las de flúor, cuyo espectro es casi idéntico al solar, aunque les falte brillo para elevar sustancialmente el desarrollo de plantas hechas a mucho sol. Para jardinería de interior suelen usarse fluorescentes de rendimiento muy alto o VHO (very high output), que si bien consumen el triple de electricidad rinden el doble de luz, y resultan muy útiles para lograr que arraiguen esquejes, ya que el proceso de clonación está más expuesto al riesgo de abrasamiento por luz excesiva.

Más tarde aparecieron los cinco halógenos, cuyo principio no es el filamento incandescente sino una cámara donde el fluido eléctrico atraviesa cierto gas sujeto a gran presión, produciendo lo que se denomina una descarga de alta intensidad o HID (high intensity discharge). En recintos pintados de blanco por los cuatro costados, o revestidos por algún material reflectante, las lámparas de HID ofrecen una cantidad de lúmenes que no desmerece demasiado a los de un mediodía estival. Dentro de la categoría HID hay varias lámparas de haluro metálico, destacando entre ellas las que fabrican General Electric (Multivapor), Sylvania (Metalarc) y Philips/Westinghouse (Metal Halide). Sin embargo, las bombillas más eficaces -por lúmenes y duración- son las que combinan sodio, mercurio y xenón, llamadas habitualmente HPS (high pressure sodium), cuyo rasgo común es emitir un fulgor a medio camino entre el amarillo y el naranja; los HPS más vendidos hoy son el modelo de General Electric (Lucalox), el de Sylvania (Lumalux), el de Westinghouse (Ceramalux), el de Phillips (Son Agro) y el fabricado por Iwasaki, que tiene fama de ser el mejor por su excepcional rendimiento en luz azul.

Naturalmente, dichas lámparas se adaptan a una amplia gama de vatios, que van desde 35 a 1.000. Las de 400 vatios duran casi el doble que las de 1.000, sobrecargan menos los cables (previniendo cortocircuitos y quemaduras), y bastan para un metro cuadrado de cultivo; dependiendo del tamaño final de cada planta, en esa extensión caben tres, ocho y hasta más ejemplares. Rasgo común a toda lámpara de HID es ir acompañada de una caja que incluye condensador y transformador, lo primero para proporcionar una carga intensa y rápida, y lo segundo para controlar el libre flujo de corriente dentro de la bombilla; es habitual que incluya también un fusible muy seguro. El precio conjunto de lámpara y caja -para 400 vatios- varía en función de fabricantes y países, aunque en Estados Unidos y Holanda ronda los 300 dólares; en España los precios pueden ser considerablemente más altos, y también más bajos, pues los vendedores ignoran aún la picaresca de su mercado; separadas, una bombilla, el transformador y el condensador pueden costar entre 10 y 20.000 pesetas. Cada lámpara suele incluir dos bombillas, una con el espectro lumínico ideal para crecimiento y otra con el adaptado a floración. También es imprescindible una pantalla reflectora, hecha de metal resistente al calor, que suele ir aparejada al equipo y puede adoptar formas diversas.

Estos prodigios de brillo tardan tres o cuatro minutos en alcanzar su plena descarga de energía, y ponerlos en marcha toma dos o tres veces más tiempo cuando están recién apagados. Si bien las bombillas son muy resistentes antes de empezar a usarse, el régimen de elevada temperatura al que trabajan las hace bastante frágiles para lo sucesivo. Una vez encendidas, por ejemplo, algunas gotas de agua que toquen el cristal pueden hacerlas implosionar, y también es posible que -en frío- las averíe irreparablemente una mera sacudida brusca. Como soportan mal los cambios de tensión eléctrica -sobre todo cuando llegan al apagón-, una cautela fundamental es desenchufarlas cuando eso se produzca, y no volver a enchufarlas hasta 10 ó 20 minutos después, cuando ya se hayan enfriado. A pesar de estos inconvenientes, dicen que el empleo cuidadoso asegura una vida media de 24.000 horas para las bombillas de 1.000 vatios, lo cual significa funcionar cinco años a una tasa de 12 horas/día. No obstante, es más realista cambiar de bombillas cada año, porque cuestan unas 5.000 pesetas y van perdiendo lúmenes con el tiempo.

Dado el costo de cada lámpara, es absolutamente recomendable complementar su acción con un temporizador, que puede adquirirse por apenas nada, tanto en Europa como en nuestro país. El temporizador no sólo evita enchufar y desenchufar la caja, sino que permite planificar durante días, semanas o meses el fotoperiodo, encendiendo y apagando a la hora prevista. La automatización redondea las ventajas de ese sol particular, que el agricultor hidropónico pone al servicio de sus necesidades.

Queda, por último, asegurar el circuito eléctrico con una instalación que evite sobrecargas y fugas. Cualquier tacañería en este capítulo es un ahorro del loro, que puede desembocar en fallos, incendios e incluso descargas mortales, porque la hidroponía supone una presencia constante de agua. La caja de una lámpara HID contiene, por ejemplo, un condensador que puede acumular cargas extremadamente altas durante meses, y ahorrárselo -comprando el condensador y el transformador por separado-, es cosa reservada a peritos; naturalmente, la caja no debe rozar el suelo ni otras zonas de posible humedad.

Por otra parte, un equipo de 400, 600 o 1.000 vatios es poca cosa comparada con los electrodomésticos más habituales; una plancha o un horno eléctrico, por ejemplo, consumen 1.200 y 1.400 vatios respectivamente; el lavaplatos consume hasta 2.800 en ciertos momentos. Un hogar actual modesto mueve intensidades cinco o seis veces superiores, y soluciona su funcionamiento con cables de suficiente grosor, raquetas para enchufes múltiples y una pluralidad de circuitos, cada uno dotado de su fusible, listo para saltar cuando se superan ciertos amperios¹.

2) El flujo de agua -llamado corriente de transpiración- es tan esencial para una vida vegetal como la luz. Los capilares de la raiz absorben agua, nutrientes y oxígeno del suelo, transportándolos desde el tronco hasta las hojas. Parte del agua se emplea para la fotosíntesis, mientras otra parte devuelve a la raiz azúcares y almidones producidos por la planta.

La proporción de acidez y alcalinidad del agua se mide con el factor pH (1 es máxima acidez, 14 máxima alcalinidad), que no debe ser inferior a 5,5 ni superior a 7 para plantas que crecen sobre tierra, aunque las de cultivo hidropónico rinden más con un nivel 6-6,5. Toda buena tienda de jardinería vende medidores digitales de pH, que son los más sencillos de usar; en su defecto hay medidores electrónicos o, en el peor de los casos, papel de tornasol con las instrucciones adecuadas para su empleo. El agua del grifo suele contener niveles altos de cloro, que se evaporará dejándola reposar un par de días en algún recipiente abierto.

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When to plant:
More or less with the first increasing moon of March or April. If you still plant in May you will be in time. You can directly plant in the ground or flowerpot, but almost better to do it in a glass of paper that allows the root to grow about 2.5 cm. at least. in depth, since you will assure that you plant definitively of seeds in good state and later it will be very easy to cut the glass and to extract the Earth as a compact block for the transplant.

There is one who puts the first seed to germinate in cotton to soon pass it to the glass or directly to the flowerpot or the ground.
Water:
The hemp needs enough water, but without getting to have the Earth permanently soaked; as reference you observe that with the lack of water the leaves fall. From you do not go either here with the water.
Temperature
Usually one thinks that whatever more better heat, but is not certain either, since an excess of heat - to start off of 30 degrees it oppresses more or less to the plant and it leaves it aplatanada. In fact it does not require temperatures superior to 18 degrees.
Male and female
In the first place it is necessary to consider that is the female and not the male the apt one for the consumption. After three weeks of normal growth, the masculine plants have less color, more height and are thinner, have less leaves and the branches are born to each other of the stem to a greater distance, to the time that produce a small ball species which it will leave polen that it will fertilize the leaves of the females. Towards the sixth week a plume luck grows to them of leaves in the end. The feminine plants on the contrary are stockier and cleared, of green the dark, they have many leaves and the much more next branches leave the stem to each other

The density of the plantation favors the development of the masculine ones, whereas the free space facilitates the development of the feminine ones. All the plants produce so much above the masculine one as the feminine one, and are the environmental conditions the one another sex or determinant. If you have planted in April towards first of June already them you can distinguish.

If the females are fertilized will produce seeds but they lose psychoactive power, so if you do not have problems to obtain seeds for the next year, it tries to cut the males before the females bloom. Also it can happen that the plant is hermafrodita
Installment
If you cultivate in flowerpot and you have bought rich earth in nutrients it is not necessary to pay, or to do it very moderately since the inexperienced cultivator usually burns the plant by excess of installment, but you will have to change to the Earth every year.

If you cultivate in the field, the best thing, if it can, it is to find a land that is also used for another type of cultures since the hemp grows better in rotation with other cultures like the grain, the beans or the peas, that suppose an important reenergetización of the land. If the land seriously is not exhausted, the following method works enough good: At the beginning of the autumn the chosen piece of earth is worked and it covers itself to him with one slight dung layer, and the beans or other leguminosas stand next; after two or three weeks the return to the Earth occurs leaving buried the stems and the surface with heavy boots becomes to flatten the Earth being above or passing a roller; soon it is let rest the Earth the winter throughout. At the beginning of the spring the land is weeded, it is covered with an organic fertilizer as the dung and already is ready to plant.
Seeds and sementera
The main enemy of the seeds is the humidity. In a perfectly dry atmosphere they even maintain its vitality during three years and they are not affected by the heat if it does not surpass the 37 degrees. If laatmósfera in which they are she is humid this temperature descends to the 30 degrees. Most of the cultivators they hermetically use a closed container, like which the photographers use to keep their films, and they approximately maintain it to a constant temperature of 25 degrees. He is not either advisable to keep great amounts from together seeds because they could be warmed up.

The outer aspect provides a good number of indications on the health state of the seed. The vital seed is well smooth by outside and anything rough; it has greenish gray a gray color sure or gray brown, and it is put bright if rubs it with the hands. If once opened they expelen a scent like of rancid oil, surely are too old; if on the inside they present/display a black color he is safe that they have fermented and will never germinate; on the contrary if the interior is whitish and dusty they are not very old and still they can germinate, but the plants that appear will be weak
Transplant
In general, already we have said in the first point that usually stand in a provisional place for the germination, like for example and for it nothing better than a paper glass that allows the root to grow about 2.5 cm. at least. in depth, since it will be very easy to cut the glass and to extract the Earth like a compact block.

During the transplant the plants are exposed remarkably to a series of risks, so there will be to take some precautions:

First to do it in a cloudy day at dusk or so that the roots are not seen exposed the light very. it will be procured that the new land is most similar to the previous one; the plant with the Earth removes delicately as a compact block and is placed in a hole previously practiced in the new receiving land, is the ground or the flowerpot. it will also be tried not to touch the stem, maintaining it more close possible of the level of earth, and without never touching raicillas nor the leaves. when depositing the earth block in the hole will be tried to focus the plant towards the light not to force it to an abrupt fototrópico movement - of light search that could harm the arraigamiento. the hole must be the quite deep thing like allowing the young root to extend in all its length, because surely it will have been left something compressed in his provisional place. the land will be rearranged so that the stem the same height of the ground has left that tapeworm previously; to accumulate too much earth around the stem can be dangerous. to water when finalizing the operation, in order to facilitate the adaptation to the new land.
When to harvest
The belief that exists when more time is the plants in the best ground, before the first frosts even arrive, which would load the plant. Nothing else far from the reality; the marijuana plant has its cycle just as all the plants, are cherry trees, pear trees, or any other. It arrives a little while in which the cogollos are mature and if they are not cut and more weeks are left outdoors become rancid and lose the good smoked taste to the being.

In general, when the filaments of the plumeros of the females happen of targets to brown, more or less after about 6 or 7 months since they stood, it is the adapted moment for cutting. If you have planted in flowerpot the cycle of the plant will be smaller, like its production, and will be enough with about 5 months.
The flowerpot
The flowerpots must have, like minimum, at heart, a hole to avoid the stagnation of the water. the flowerpot must be of porous material, without external nor horneadas paintings. before using the flowerpot one will get wet completely during half an hour at least. to avoid the water pool in posamacetas. It is obtained depositing the flowerpot on a layer of 1 cm. of gravilla in posamacetas. the plant must always have natural or artificial light. not to change it of site constantly while it is growing. to the parrot with the parasites. when it is paid, to respect the proportions of fertilizer; in any case, to consider the previous advice on installments in flowerpot. if during the growth the plant stretches too much in search of light, ayudala with a small stick as a muleta. when the plant is 2 or 3 days old, if him lack space - it will always need in flowerpot and therefore its growth will not be as much as in the field trasplantala to a greater flowerpot; the more it can lower the root the more it will grow the plant. each plant must be put more far possible of the edges and to a distance of about 40 cm. respect to the others. the lombrices constitute a inestimable aid; the Earth boxed and submissive continuous irrigations is compressed immediately; the lombrices remove it, favor the circulation of the air and the development by the roots. the affection which you profess to your plants proportionally will be corresponded.

If we are interested in the inner culture, we must consider that the seeds that come from outside plants, although are of good quality needed an adaptation to artificial means and this I will be able to take generations of selected seeds to obtain good results. This takes it doing in Holland with many means and during aos. At the present time they count on an ample catélogo of seeds of quality assured for all type of cultures. In the inner culture gené tica stays if they are created the favorable conditions month and the plants were crossed that better adapt to the microclimate created under the artificial light.

This demonstrated that gené tica of a seed is the factor important month so that the end item is of quality. A bad seed in the best conditions can give to a great plant but without resin nor scent. The seeds must have “pedigre” or lineage.
The plant has two phases in its life, the vegetative growth and the formation of flowers, thing that happens when the plant perceives that the duration of the solar period of light is used excessive respect, that is to say, that approaches the autumn. When the night gives begins to be but short that, the plant to whatever enter period of flowering the size that has reached.

In interiors, it has been discovered that the time of exhibition to the artificial light can be forced the flowering manipulating, when the plant has the height that is desired.

Here you have information on a self-supplying system already proven, in that they are possible to be gathered of three to five harvests to the year, depending on the complexity of the system.

It is much simple month to adapt a seed of interior to outside that to the inverse one.

The light of the sun has many ultra-violet rayses that burned to a plant swelling under artificial light, if is put under it this change of abrupt form.

If on the contrary this change is made the acclimatization gradually be perfect. It agrees to improvise a small conservatory with pléstico or similar until they can support the direct light. Many planters of outside begin the plantation in interiors. There are seeds apt as much for interior as for conservatory.

To adapt a plant of outside to interior is not worth the trouble. Pedigri are seeds of `” apt for balconies with good results. The problem of the outer culture is that although great plants are cultivated, these are exposed during months to the climate and the plagues, and single there is a harvest per year.
Illumination of the marijuana

During many years the fluorescent ones for the growth of plants without sun have been used. Despus was used lémparas of steam of mercury, although without great improvements. From the appearance of lémparas of high pressure: those of sodium steam (HPS) and those of metlicos halogenuros (MH), that usually are used in the public lighting system (freeways, parks, stages, etc. ), demés has remained old fashioned, although the fluorescent ones can be continued using. (they are idneos for certain phases of the process).

The incandescent lights and the halogenous ones, are not of ours interé s. They do not give the suitable phantom and if much heat and consumption.

Those of type MH, they are ideal for vegetative growth and they are apt for germination and clonación (esquejes). They give a generally white light, existing diverse tones.

Those of type HPS, they are ideal for flowering and apt for growth. Usually they give a light of orange color, although already new tonalities have been obtained, even white sodium.

Fluorescent of the type cool white (color 33) and those of the type gro-luxe, are ideal for clonación and germination.

If there is month no remedy, with any lamp of high pressure or even with a good assembly of fluorescent, all the cycle can be made. The powers of these lémparas (HP) are of 150, 250, 400 and 1000 W. The differences of price between one of smaller power and another one of greater, are minimum, however the results are very different. They are not recommendable 250 powers smaller to W.

Lémparas of high pressure takes very heavy ballasts and must be or subject with chains or pulleys. The ballasts separate, and slo can be mounted to hold to the screen and the light bulb to a pulley, since the light to have to be raising as the plants grow. It is essential to consult with a specialist to know how to install a lamp of these characteristics well, if knowledge are not had on electricity. This warning agrees, but by the danger that entraa an installation badly done, that by the complexity of the assembly that is not so.

In order to obtain a yield similar to a HP with fluorescent, to require a quite heavy assembly and of difficult handling. We have to think that watio of light of a lamp of high pressure gives to month light that a watt of fluorescent light.

There are supports with circular or lateral movement where one or several settles lémparas, managing to double the plantation criminal, although they are expensive.

Lémparas MH, the inclinations require to work in horizontal altering their yield, serious advisable to use a work level. Some models work in vertical, but with smaller yield.

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